[Tango-L] Report from Buenos Aires #3

[Michael]

More observations:

Cabeceo
When not dancing, look ALIVE!! You are always being scouted by
potential partners dancers. Yes, it´s aggravating not to dance and the
wait is excruciating, because you don´t know how long it will be.
Dances don´t run on a timetable. Some women look like they are in a
catatonic state, waiting for Count Dracula or Prince charming to break
the spell.

Unless you have 2 noses or 3 ears, Argentines think you´re an
Argentine, unless you change your shoes at your table. For me, facing
30 women who are looking my direction (not at me) makes me feel my
back is to the wall and I´m facing a firing squad!! Ready, aim, dance.
If you dance simply and well, the women won´t know until they converse
in Spanish and I have to tell them ¨No soy Argentino.¨ Some will say
in English or Spanish ´Where are you from?´ or will ask ¿Are you from
Miami?  or ¿are you from New York? For some reason, they think those
are the only cities in the US. (I´m having a hell of a time with this
Spanish keyboard.)

Be prepared for the unexpected
For the last tango in a tanda, my partner decided on her own that we
were going to dance Cayeunge. (Don´t bother writing I misspelled it.)
she put her left check against my right and lowered my left arm. I´ve
seen this dance twice, never took any lessons, but survived the
challenge.

How much money to bring (everything in pesos)
Figure a milonga will be 20 (including an obligatory beverage). It´s
possible to go to two milongas in a day. I rented a house so my
breakfast bill is minimal from buying groceries. Lunch will be 30
pesos and dinner 40 pesos at Tenedor Libre (buffet), Multiply by the
number of days you´re in BA and divide by 3.6 to convert to US
dollars. Add on for souvenirs, lessons, shoes, etc. There is a NEW
Argentine departure tax of $29US. If you bought your ticket PRIOR to
April 1, the airline didn´t collect it and you´ll pay it at the
airport. After April 1, it should be included in your ticket. Check
with your airlines.

What NOT to wear (non milonga related)
Don´t dress like a tourist. Argentines don´t wear tango T shirts. To
thwart pick pockets, I wear my Israeli army jacked with has zippered
pockets. I don´t want to carry bags. My guide told me to take off my
gold watch. Somebody could bump into me and slide it off my hand.
Leave expensive jewelry (including watches) at home. The Argentines
don´t wear fancy clothes

Next time, I´ll write how to get around town. If you´re in a group,
you don´t have to worry about the language, riding the subway or bus
and using cabeceo. But then, you´ll miss some of the life and energy
of the city.

Tomorrow is laundry day and Gricel, which I haven´t been to yet. Today
I took a 6 hour walking tour of Plaza San Martin down to Plaza de
Mayo. (I bought the Living Earth(?) guide book. Tomorrow I plan a
walking tour of the Port or La Boca.

Reporting from Buenos Aires
Michael Ditkoff
Washington, DC

-- 
I'd rather be dancing Argentine Tango