[Tango-L] Club Gricel in Buenos Aires--things aren't the way they used to be

[Janis Kenyon]

Club Gricel on La Rioja near San Juan was my regular place several years ago
on Friday nights.  I would arrive around 11:30 to join my friend Rosy at her
table.  The floor was usually crowded until 3:00am when many dancers went
home.  I was there regularly until it closed at 5:00am when Daniel Borelli
was the deejay.  I hadn't been to Club Gricel since the homenaje for Ricardo
Vidort on May 31.

Gricel is open Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday nights, but Friday has
been the most popular night for many years.  The entrada used to be five
pesos (dollars), then seven, eight, and now it's ten pesos ($3.30).  After
paying last night, the cashier told me that there are no tables.  I arrived
at 11:20pm and the place wasn't full.  They hold reserved tables for the
regulars until midnight.  Visitors should call for a reservation or not
arrive until midnight to take their chances at being seated, especially
during the summer months.  I decided to stay as long as I was there.

The bar which used to be on one side of the floor has been relocated to the
back of the room behind the neon sign.  The walls display tango art for
sale.  The space looks larger and seats at least 450, if not more.

I met my friend Lucia as she was leaving the ladies' room and joined her at
her table.  Those who reserve the table didn't show up last night, so I
didn't have to move.

I realized that although we were in a good location to see the milongueros'
table, the milongueros weren't there.  Chiche, Mario, Ernesto, Tito, Miguel
Angel, Roberto and others used to congregate at the same table every Friday
night and order several bottles of champagne.  Friday nights aren't the same
without them.

It was no surprise that women outnumbered the men, and there were lots of
tourists.  This was the first time I've seen a group of young men in suits
and ties dancing with older women who obviously hired them as taxi dancers
for the night.  The majority of dancers at Gricel are over 60, and the taxi
dancers were in their late 20s and early 30s.  The women get to dance, but
they don't seem to be enjoying it.  One woman had a partner who was too tall
for her.

The evening would have been a waste for me if Osvaldo Centeno hadn't been
there.


Janis Kenyon